June 20, 2009

She stood staring out at the blue-grey sea, peaceful and at one with nature. Then nature dumped a wave over her head.

So here is a word (or several) of wisdom:

If you have not been surfing in four months, and then suddenly decide you are going to go surfing while at the beach with some friends on a day when the tide is really high, the surf is super rough, and the undercurrent is incredibly strong, do not expect to come home unscathed.

I re-broke my toe.

My shoulder, and thigh are pretty bruised.

There are several fin slices on my legs.

Every muscle in my body wants to fall off.

The top of my right foot hurts oddly.

This is basically what the end result of the above conditions. And yes that is me, upside down, face slamming into the board. It was fun.

But it was actually really fun and relaxing. Oddly enough, it was 90 in Riverside, and when we pulled into Oceanside the car temperature thingy said it was 69. When we pulled off the 15 and onto the 76 the sky was suddenly overcast, and black. It really wasn't that cold down there. I loved it, while mostly everyone else complained a little. But we all had a good time, and got to eat fish and chips and I had this giant chocolate covered eclair with my cafe mocha thing that was huge. Good times.

Oh great. I just now found out that we're going surfing tomorrow for Father's Day.

My poor muscles...

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